[Tous modeles a allumage electronique] Capteur a effet Hall de canette (Honeywell 2av54)

Salut,

Je sais que certains d'entres vous ont essayer d'acheter des capteurs neufs pour leur canette sans succes.

J'en ai trouve ici: http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=96F1986&CMP=AFC-OP&CMP=AFC-OP

Il y en a 274 en stock . Je vous conseille donc de vous regrouper et d'en commander 10 (prix unitaire pour 10: $18.35) pour economiser sur les couts de transport.

Si jamais le cout de transport pour la France etait prohibitif, je pourrais les commander aux USA (livraison par USPS habituellement tres competitif), aller les chercher et les envoyer a l'un d'entre vous qui pourrait les amener a une Flatistanaise ou autre. Pas la solution la plus simple mais bon... J'aimerais eviter dans la mesure du possible d'avoir a faire le postier pour 10 personnes car si une chose me manque en ce moment, ce n'est pas la bonne volonte mais le temps

Je sais que vous pouvez aussi trouver ces capteurs dans des allumages de Bosch dans les casses mais a $18.35 piece, ca peut aussi valoir le coup de changer les capteurs pour des neufs et etre tranquille pour 100,000 km.

Pour les interesses, un beau petit tuto (en anglais) pour changer les capteurs. Le lien: http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42337

Et le tuto (qui n'est pas de moi):

I just followed the Rob Frankham site that Kurt linked above, to fix my free '81 R65, which had a dead Hall sensor. Google "Honeywell 2AV54" and you'll find several sources for the actual sensor -- they cost about $13.50.

Here's the front of the motor, with the bean can under the generator:


This is what it looks like when the bean can is removed:


The can itself looks like this from the back:


When you remove the two philips screws on the cover, you find this:


Unscrew the two screws and remove the bracket with its small bushing, and you find this. As you can see, I put those two screw back in and used a Channel Locks to squeeze this circlip and get it out.


In my case, I found this little hitchhiker on the back of the clip:


Remove the plastic plug that locks the cable strain relief insert in place:


Remove the plug on the side of the can:


...and carefully remove the two little springs that control the centrifugal advance:


Turn the can over and remove the light spring that ensures the drift pin stays in place:


Then remove the drift pin:


Now you can remove the offset key ring...


...and remove all of the shim washers...


At this point, all of the internals are free and you can remove them. (However, I didn't read the directions well enough and didn't actually do things in this order.)

Here's the centrifugal advance unit:


Once you remove the E clip from the centrifugal advance central shaft (not shown), you can remove the timing unit.


This circlip locks the timing "umbrella" to the rest of the timing unit:




This tiny drift pin aligns the "umbrella" with the rest of the timing unit. The umbrella is made of steel, but is very thin. Frankham's driections tell you not to distort it getting it off, and with good reason. Mine was very stiff and I spent a lot of time carefully nudging it off.


You can just see the drift pin still sitting in the groove here. The umbrella has two cut outs, on opposite sides from each other. These cut outs provide the timing signal.


The vertical part of the umbrella spins through the middle part of the Hall sensor (black plastic unit rivetted on the right side). Normally, the little permanent magnet (see photo of the big circlip above) is on the inside and the Hall sensor (located on the outside of the plastic unit) can sense when one of the cut outs in the umbrella passes by.


Once you remove the last remaining circlip, the timing plate can be separated from the centrifugal advance activator:


In my case, I was lucky: the timing plate is actually made from two partial plates, and apparently the later ones are rivetted together. Mine was held with two countersunk screws, so it was easy to disassemble and reassemble, which is necessary to remove and replace the Hall sensor.




Here you can see both the little magnet, and also the broken bit of plastic from the Hall sensor body. I suspect that the glue that held the magnet finally gave up, and the magnet stuck itself to the spinning umbrella, breaking through the plastic body.


Compare old (above) and new Hall sensors:

sympa les infos Fred